Changing Motor Mounts
courtesy of SCCoA member, Jason Marsh
Phillips and slot screwdrivers
Ratchet w/ several extentions & Universal
Socket sets Metric & SAE, Deep & Shallow
Workbench w/ a Vice
Hydraulic Floor jack
Safety jack stands
1. First remove the windshield wipers using the slotted
screwdriver. Lift the wiper and pry out on the retaining
clip, then allow the wiper arm to rest on the retaining
clip and lift off the car.
2. Remove the plastic cowl under the wipers using the
Phillips screwdriver. (some say you dont have to,
but Ive seen them broken in the process. Better
safe than sorry)
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
4. Raise the vehicle and support it on safety jacks.
5. Remove the front half of the exhaust system from the
6. Driver side, disconnect and remove the steering rag
joint and push the steering shaft up into the firewall.
7. Passenger side, disconnect and remove Knock sensor.
You may need a special socket for this step.
8. Passenger side, disconnect and remove the starter
9. Using the floor jack put a block of wood between the
engine oil pan and the jack. Lift the engine an inch or
so to relieve the pressure from the engine mount bolts.
10. Remove the large through bolts from each mount. This
bolt is accessed from the front with several extentions
and a u-joint. You may need a breaker bar for this step.
Once they are freed you can use a hammer and the Phillips
screwdriver to drive the bolt out from the back.
11. Driver side there is a bolt that is somewhat hidden.
It is pointing downward through a lip in the engine mount
bracket. Remove this bolt.
12. Now you can use the jack to lift the engine as high
as it will go in the engine bay. BE SURE THE HOOD IS
UP!!! You dont want to dent your hood
13. Both sides, have 3 bolts holding the bracket to the
side of the engine. The front lower on each side is a
studded bolt with a nut. Remove that nut and push the
attached stuff to the side. Then remove all 3 bolts
14. The mounts and brackets will come out in 1 or 2
pieces depending upon how bad of shape they are in.
15. Disassemble the old brackets and mounts and
reassemble the new on a workbench with a vice.
16. Take the newly assembled mounts and install them into
their original locations.
17. Start by bolting the brackets to the engine. Be sure
to use the studded bolt on the lower front hole.
18. Re-attach both ground straps and the retaining clips
to the studded bolts and tighten the nut to secure them.
19. Lower the engine to align the bottom through bolts
20. START with the driver side!!!!
21. Install the bottom through bolt into the driver side
mount first from the front, but do not tighten
22. You may need to use a pry bar to align the hole for
the bottom through bolts.
23. Once you have the driver side in, install the
passenger side through bolt without tightening
24. Now install the hidden downward bolt on the driver
side and tighten both bottom through bolts.
25. Go back and double check that all bracket bolts and
through bolts are good and tight.
26. Re-install the Knock sensor. (I suggest replacing
with a new one)
27. Re-install the steering rag joint and pull the shaft
down and connect it.
28. Re-install the front half of the exhaust.
29. Lower the car and re-install cowl cover and wipers.
30. Re-connect negative battery cable.
Good luck, this job is not for the weak of heart. An
amateur mechanic can complete this job but must have a
great deal of patience and the ability to figure out
alternative methods of accessing nuts and bolts. I found
that there are holes here and there in the lower K-member
that will allow you access to the mount bolts using the
right u-joints and extentions. Also I suggest using
½ drive, Ive broken lots of 3/8 tools
doing engine mount installs. Expect this job to take a
full day barring any major set-backs.
follow up is from SCCoA member, Tbird88.
Best I can remember on mine...I removed the battery,
belts, upper radiator hose, intercooler, radiator fan,
radiator, upper IC tube, coilpack, and alternator. After
getting these off, leave the refrigerant lines connected
and unbolt the A/C compressor and tie it off to the side
with a piece of wire. Remove the jackshaft pulley so you
can access the bloody bolt FoMoCo put behind it, remove
the other bolts and then take the complete A/C bracket
out of the car. That should be all for the passenger
side. On the driverside, there are 3 bolts/nuts holding
the main power steering pump bracket to the engine and
one holding the lower IC tube. Get these and the 2 nuts
on the water pump, you should now be able to move the
complete assembly out of your way by laying it forward
towards the core support. You should now be able to use a
small floor jack cushioned with a piece of wood under the
oil pan to raise the engine. Remove the bolts on each
side that hold the motor mounts to the engine block and
the thru-bolts on the subframe. A word of caution...When
raising the engine, watch the clearance between the
intake plenum and the windshield cowl area. You might
have to remove the cowl panels to get enough space to
raise the engine. Check your transmission mount, you
might want to change it also.